Introduction To Shutter Hardware-Installation Details

Armed with a shutter and shutter hardware vocabulary, confused by the many styles of hinges, pintles and tie backs, you are ready to start picking your shutter hardware. 

This section will discuss why there are so many versions of shutter hardware and which will work best for you.  Some basic variations of installation will be presented for consideration.  Even if you have decided to have someone else handle the installation the information here could still be helpful in determining which contractor you use and which hardware is the most cost effective.

Material Choices
The three most common choices in hardware material are cast, mild steel or stainless steel.  When you pick, consider not just the initial cost.  Think about the maintenance and durability. 

Cast hinges are made of low quality metal.  While these are the most inexpensive, they are also to most time consuming to install.   The cast hinges mount to the window jamb and edge of the shutter.   If they are used in a functional application they should be mortised into the shutter and jamb.  The cost or time to mortise can negate any savings.  They are also very brittle.  They will break not bend when mounted to an uneven surface or stressed.  Cast hinges are also unpainted and the most prone to corrosion.  They should be painted to match the window trim or shutter color and will require regular maintenance to avoid rust stains.  These hinges are recommended as replacements for existing, broken hinges.  Due to the mounting labor and quality of metal they should not be considered for new installations.

Mild steel is used for all the hand forged hardware.  It can rust if unprotected or scratched.  The hand forged line has been around for a long time, and the design has evolved to a very durable product.  For example the gauge, or thickness, has been chosen for strength.  A metal that bends at all will crack the finish and is more prone to rust.  The clearance between the pintle pin and hinge barrel is large enough that moisture will not be trapped.  The most important evolution of the design is in the finish.  We now use a multiple step process done by one of the best finishing companies in the country.  The parts get zinc phosphate plating, followed by an electrolytic epoxy dip with a polyester powder coat top layer.  We could write pages of technical mumbo-jumbo describing the details but the bottom line is this is the most durable finish available for exterior hardware.

Stainless steel is steel with a special recipe.  It is formulated to rust less than mild steel.  It is also much more expensive per pound, so stainless steel hardware is always made using a thinner material (we can make hand forged stainless steel hardware, but it is more expensive).  It still depends on a finish for protection, but if the finish is damaged it will not corrode as much as mild steel.  If you are in a coastal location and have seen metal outside rust quickly the advantage of stainless is probably justified.  The best possible product would be stainless with the same coating as the hand forged hardware.  Yes we have it and no one else does.

Mounting Choices-Hinges
The hinge can be mounted on the back (when open), front, or edge.  The most common mounting is on the back of the shutter so when it is closed the hinge is visible.  The hole on the hinge closest to the barrel should be centered on the shutter stile.  If the hinges are visible when the shutter is open they are referred to as show hinges.  Shutters should be slightly smaller in width for show hinges because when closed the hinge will be proud of the shutter edge.  Edge mounting hinges are typically the cast or lift off styles.  They should be mortised into the shutter and mounted with flat head fasteners.  If they are not mortised, the shutters should be smaller in width to compensate for the thickness of the hinge. 

Hinge size is measured in length, offset and throw.  Different lengths are available for strap hinges.  The length is typically half to two thirds of the shutter width.  Offset is the dimension from the mounting surface of the hinge to the center of the hinge barrel.  Throw is the measurement from the bend in an offset hinge to the center of the hinge barrel. 

Styles

Mounting Choices-Pintles
The importance of mounting pintles so they tie into a frame member of the house was already mentioned, but it needs to be restated.  Over time the weight, wind load and operation of the shutters can pull pintles out of the house if not properly mounted.  The weight of your shutters needs to be carried by a suitable part of your house.  If you are not sure about this, call a professional. 

The pintles can be mounted either to the window frame or the structure of the house.  The space within the frame, size of the shutters and construction of the house facing should be considered in making this choice.  The other issue is if the shutters are to be functional and where they should be when closed.

Most shutters are mounted using plate pintles.  It provides a nice appearance and distributes the surface load.  A narrower plate is available if the space for mounting is limited.  This can happen if the pintles are mounted inside the window frame.  Offset of the pintle is critical for functional installations or to space the shutter away from the face of the house. 

Lag pintles are also a good choice.  They require just one mounting hole, but much bigger.  This is an advantage when mounting into a stone face home.  The surface then is not flat and one hole is much easier to drill.  The other advantage is the offset is adjustable, by turning the lag more or less you can change it.  If you want the look of a plate pintle but like the installation of the lag, an escutcheon plate will make the lag look like a plate mount.

Jamb pintles require mortising into the window jamb, which is a difficult task.  They do have some advantages, if mounting on the window frame or face of the house is a problem.  In situations where storm windows have been installed a jamb mount may also be a good choice.

The female pintle has a unique look and on some homes is very easy to install.  When in the closed position, the pintle and hinge are the same width which has a very clean look.  When mounting the pintle to brick, the holes can be placed over mortar making drilling easier and eliminating the chance of cracking a brick.  However the installation must work with no offset, as this design is not compatible with an offset.

Styles

Installation Situation-Non Operable Shutters
This installation is the easiest and most cost effective choice for wood shutters.  The shutters can be removed for maintenance, air can circulate behind the shutters, and they look like they should.  The time and complexity of the installation is much lower.  If mounting the pintle to wood, a plate or lag pintle is the best choice.  If the mounting surface is brick or stone, then the female notched pintle or lag pintle would be the best choice.  In either of these cases, drilling into the mortar is recommended.  It is easier to drill and less likely to crack.  If it is necessary to drill into brick or stone do not drill within an inch of the edge to reduce the chance of a crack developing.  Consider the offset of the pintle and hinge to clear any molding or for recessed casing situations.  The location of the pintle and throw of the hinge will affect the reveal.  Shutters should be parallel to the wall or the edge closest to the opening slightly larger.  The angle is commonly called rake.  At least a half inch of clearance should be allowed.  If the face of the house is an irregular surface like stone, use a straight edge to measure clearance at the worst point.

Installation Situation-Operable Shutters
These are the more critical installation situations and require more attention to detail.  
Here are a number of sketches based on the construction of your home and how you want the shutters mounted. 

• First is the casing flush with the exterior of the house or recessed? 

• If the casing is flush, consider where the shutters will be when in the closed position.  Will they close within the casing opening or outside (proud) of the opening?

If the shutter is flush, the pintle should mount on the casing.  Both the pintle and hinge should have the same offset.  Measure the height and width of the opening in a number of places.  Square ness of the opening is also critical.  Any uneven gaps because of these possibilities will show as uneven gaps when the shutters are closed.  For a mounting with the shutter proud, again the pintle should mount on the casing.  However the difference between the pintle offset and the hinge offset should equal the thickness of the shutter.

The other consideration is the reveal, or how much of the casing should be visible.  The amount of reveal can be varied by where on the casing the pintle is mounted and the throw of the hinge.  Some minor adjustment can be made by where the hinge is mounted on the shutter.  Hinges with offset are designed to have the screw in the center of a rail with the edge of the shutter at the beginning of the bend. 

• If the casing is recessed, there are four possible positions for the shutters when closed.

• Shutter Flush with opening

This installation will provide clearance for most storm windows.  If the exterior walls are brick, the notched hinge pintle can provide a very easy installation.  The two mounting holes are in line and can be installed into the mortar between bricks.  Jamb mount pintles are another option, if the opening surface can be mortised.  If mounting pintles to the casing, be aware of any clearance issues when opening.  The offset can be minimal and should be split evenly between hinge and pintle.  

• Shutter flush with casing

This is a challenging method, the shutter size and opening dimensions need to be checked very carefully.  Height and width should be measured in a number of places.  Square ness of the opening is also critical.  Any uneven gaps because of these possibilities will show as uneven gaps when the shutters are closed.  Pintles should mount on the casing; offset of the pintle and hinge should be the same.  Locate pintle and check throw of hinge to avoid clearance issues.  A jamb mount could cause interference issues with the corner of the opening and might hide part of the window casing.  Mounting to the exterior wall will require a different offset hinge and pintle, possibly requiring custom hardware.  If selecting this mounting style and using shutter bolts, make sure there is clearance for the bolts when shutters are closed. 

• Shutter proud of casing

This option eliminates many dimension related issues of the opening.  When in the closed position any wind load is transferred to the window frame, not carried by the pintle mounts.  The easier pintle mounting location would be on the casing.  Pintle offset should be greater than hinge offset to accommodate shutter thickness.  If offsets are an issue, pintles can mount to exterior wall, but watch throw of hinge to avoid interference with corner of wall.  If the opening material can be mortised, jamb mount is another option.

• Shutter proud of opening

This is often the easiest installation because all dimensional fit issues will be hidden with shutters in the closed position.  Any uneven jambs or lack of square ness will be covered when shutters are closed.  This method will usually clear any storm windows in the opening.  If the shutters are to be used for storm protection the wind load will be transferred to the structure instead of the window frames or pintles.  Pintles must mount to exterior wall.  A notched hinge and pintle will mount easily, but a plate mount pintle will also work well.

© Guthrie Hill Hardware Company, Inc.